Saturday, November 14, 2009

SportRock Alexandria ABS Comp Photos

Today was the fourth leg of the local American Bouldering Series / Friction Bouldering Series competition calendar.  The final competition is at Earth Treks in Timonium Maryland on December 12th.  

It was great having a competition at SportRock in Alexandria.  It is our local climbing gym, so it is familiar ground for Eva, and they are in the final phases of a major renovation/expansion, and the climbing area is big and the bouldering terrain is complex and varied with lots of overhang.  

Bouldering is scored based on the best five climbs (hardest, highest point climbs) in a three hour period.  For the Junior division this is usually 10:00am - 1:00pm.  Eva got off to a slow start and only had one completed climb in the first half hour.  Chalk dust was bothering her eyes and she was trying some routes that were beyond her ability.  She started to get her groove around 10:30, and posted a couple of more good scores by 11:00am.    By noon Eva had five completed routes on her card that were respectable, but probably not good enough to win.  

We spent the last hour trying to find higher point routes that she could complete.  She found a couple of routes that were 290 and 295 (V2+) that she completed but we could not find any 3XX point routes that she could make.  She found a 555 that she thought she could do, but after two tries it was clear she was overly optimistic (and she still needs to work harder at planning (sequencing) her climbs before she gets on the wall).  

We finally found a 430 point route that played to Eva's strengths, requiring good balance and the ability to grip small holds.  She missed her first try, but made her second try with about ten minutes to spare.  She tried one more route, but did not make it.  

Eva ended up with another First Place in Youth D Female (10 years old and under). 

Posted via email from Bill's posterous

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